Wednesday, October 12, 2016

The Cro-Slo Diary!

Standing in our balcony today, I looked up to the sky. It was so full of stars that I just kept on looking, focussing more and I could see the Milky
way glow after years! Last I saw it was in Ladakh, before that, in Andaman! I am in Zaton, Croatia now and our long trip is coming to its fag end. It has been mesmerising. Tiring on somedays obviously because we have to do so much, Aanya is completely dependent on us, but every step has been pure joy. Driving through the winding and amazing highways of Croatia, along the deep blue Adriatic, the Slovenian bliss before that, walks in the old towns, dips in the cold water, beautiful sunsets, above all spending so much time with Vas and Aanya, talking, doing routine stuff, taking walks, cooking, having beer...its been full of Life, purest form of it!

It all started with our train journey from Vienna to Ljubljana, such fun filled 6 hours spent in a cozy cabin looking at the green surroundings and having fun with Aanya all along. Perfect slow start to the trip :) Trains are somehow true representations of journeys :)

On reaching Ljubljana, taking our car from Sixt was a breeze and we were on the road in a jiffy! And wow...I always wait for this, getting into our car and getting out on the roads of Europe. Our first stop was Bohinj. I still remember seeing Lake Bohinj in a BBC Travel blog and instantly wanting to go there. But before we could go to the lake and get lost in its mystical vibe, the village we stayed in, Bitnje in Bohinj, took us into its own world. A village surrounded by mountains, having just 25-30 homes, a commanding, mesmerising village church, greenry all around, lovely folks, smell of farming and cattle in the air...sound of church bells and the water streams, its a village right out of my fairy tale world.

A walk around the village was like meditation. The air, so clear, so refreshing and cool, people, always smiling...one guy even took us into his cattle rooms and let Aanya meet the mamoth sized cows! Aah the village life, people busy in farming, plucking fruits, flowers...living without worries. A village where people are so religious, their church stands as a testimony to their beliefs. Across the highway, amidst vast green fields, the village church was a sight to behold, I will never forget it in my Life. And the church bells in the evening, during supper time, when the smoke rises from all chimneys, was so calming, as if someone is watching over us and we should just be, without any worries. The pic in which Aanya is running across the fields near the church, will be embedded in my memory forever! Across the church there was a silent corner, with a bridge and a railway track and water stream flowing under it. It was a scene out of Anid Blyton's Famous Five world and took us straight back into childhood mystery stories and the time spent with friends in our neighbourhood corners!

And then the time came to visit the Lake that attracted us towards Slovenia. The Lake Bohinj. The drive from our place was beautiful, through some typical small towns and greens. Just after a few Kms it was in front of us...The Blue Lake with waters so clear that one keeps staring at them with wonder! Flanked by mountains, its a huge lake, but more than magnanimity, Lake Bohinj is about calmness and clarity! The site of the church and bridge on the starting point is one to behold. Our first trip to the lake took us to the other extreme end though to a very cozy small lake beach where we couldn't resist and went in. Aanya had great fun with the blue water and I had great fun throwing stones bouncing over the lake as if on their own adventure!

I am standing here, with the Bohinj waters 
Calmness they instil, vastness they possess
I am here, I am now...The lake says...
"I will be forever too, for every now from here
Everlasting I am, feel me, touch me...be with me for a moment,
Feel how it is to be everlasting, even for this spur..."
I felt it, I am...everlasting for the moment! 
Lake Bohinj...You were a lesson in calmness! 


We loved the B&B at Bohinj,  very comfortable,  but the highlights would be the lake and the village! Stamped on my memory forever,  both of them.

I will also never forget the beautiful Pizzeria right in the middle of a valley where we had 2 amazing meals, some of the best pizzas, in of of the best ever settings. Surrounded by mountains, green farms, glowing in the sunshine, it was out of the fairy tale book :)

Our short stay in Slovenia came to an end and now it was Croatia time.  The drive was excellent,  except some traffic on the border control which is usual in this region.  The terrain seemed to change a lot,  the terraced gardens of Austria and Slovenia disappear, more country side plains surrounded by Mountains appear.  Croatia is more run down than Slovenia but it captured our attention immediately with all its unique beauty!

It was Plitvice Lakes National Park time for us,  so we were still in Upper Croatia,  away from the Coast.  I was excited,  but I didn't know what a wonder we were about to experience!

National Parks in India are a different game,  full of animals,  more arid at times and less about hikes and more about safaries! National Parks in the US are more about hikes,  are huge.  I though I will witness something more like the US National parks.

The weather played around a bit with us,  cloudy and rainy but as soon as it cleared up we left for the park worrying about long queue at the entrance.  It was long,  but quite peaceful. I read so many blogs last night about the Lakes that now I couldn't wait to see the so called Emerald Waters.  Lower Lakes greeted us as soon as we entered.  And man! I have never seen anything  like this before. Emerald Green,  Crystal clear waters,  terraced lakes connected by waterfalls and a vibe so mystical I could only remember Rivendale from LOTR! This was breathtaking! The water is so clear in the lakes that we could see fish almost smiling at us,  the fish were also in a great mood,  not fearing us but almost dancing in the wonder of Plitvice!

The hike was so refreshing,  exciting,  every corner,  every turn I couldn't wait to peep and see what is in store next,  no wonder this place was so crowded but the vibe really dominated and crowds never seemed to bother! The boat trip over one of the bigger lakes was good as well. And return journey a breeze.

The Lakes will be one of the most beautiful natural wonders that I will see ever for sure. We came so satisfied and uplifted from the Lakes.  Now we were even more excited to go towards the coast! Different wonders awaited us :)

The drive from Plitvice to Sibenic was a dampener on this trip,  one of the very few.  Highway closed,  loads of traffic on interior roads and we were welcomed by a Forest Fire in Sibenic! Aanya's mood also went for a ride,  I hoped our B&B is good.

And great it was indeed.  One of the best designed B&Bs ever,  we felt at home immediately.  The coast was near. The ocean in Croatia is sparkling blue and crystal clear.  The beaches can't beat sand beaches but the water was amazing! We loved our walks on the dock areas near our B&B.

But I will always remember Sibenic for its Old Town Charm.  Beautiful streets,  cafes and a great promenade to cover it all.  The Sibenic Old town was one of the highlights of our trip!

From Sibenic to Dubrovnic, a drive that was worrying us because if the fear of traffic, may be because of what we faced while driving into Sibenic a few days back! But this drive was one of the best highway drives for me, super fast, clear roads, bright glorious day and the changing terrain! We were back to our drive and tune up mode with great music and the Top Gear! We reached Zaton, a cozy little town before Dubrovnic situated around a small bay of the Adriatic. The apartment was in a nice location with a great terrace and view of the town and waters. The best part though was the walk around the ocean in Zaton, winding concrete paths with many boats floating on water on the docks, water so clear and the vibe so warm. We will remember our walks in Zaton.

Our first drive towards Dubrovnic was an eye opener, it set the tone of what was to come, the first sight of Dubrovnic from the highway will fill anyone with awe. This is a city of magnificent views from all around. We were so excited about going to the Old Town next day. The Old town of Dubrovnic is nothing less than mesmerising. Our first trip to the town, although great, but was marred by the heavy weekend crowds, so we came back early, but not before enjoying the walk in the "Game of thrones" zone!

We came back a bit irritated because of the crowds. But because we came back early we decided to drive down to another country! The nearby Montenegro, and town of Kotor! And man, I didn't know that this will be one of best drives ever! Enchanting views of the ocean, Dubrovnic, the drives around the coast, with great Ladakh kind of mountains forming a gorgeous backdrop, the drive made our day. We stopped at a small beach, took a dip in cool water for what was our best time spent in ocean on the trip! In the middle of nowhere in Montenegro!

Then we reached Kotor, wow, such a charming town! The old town of Kotor was like Minasterith from LOTR :) Such a great vibe the streets had, I kept falling for the old small town charm of this region. I wish we could climb right to the top of the mountain fort, but it was an "Uphill" task for us with Aanya, so we spent nice 3 hours in the town, roaming around, having beer and taking it all in. The evening in Kotor is something I will remember for a long time and that it came up as a surprise, was even better! No wonder its another World heritage site in the area. The night drive back was awesome as well, these places are so full of great views that its tough to drive with focus. The Croatian Border control was a bummer but we came well prepared for it, reached late night and slept satisfied with a great day!

We had decided to take a day's break before our long trip back towards Slovenia (which is tomorrow morning :)). I took Aanya out for a nice morning walk in Zaton, we slept well in the afternoon, I finished off some pending work. But we couldn't resist a drive in the evening. And Vas found a great beach from somewhere as she always does and came up with the idea of a drive through Dubrovnic city and sometime spent on this surprisingly not crowded beach. And it turned out to be great. The beach is located somewhat in a corner where tourists don't come often and it offers spectacular views of this fable like city!

Dubrovnic is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful cities I have been to, surrounded by waters, located on a mountain, winding roads, approaching bays, ships coming in, going out and then the Old Town, which will make anyone fall in love with the place. The drive through the city was surprisingly not cluttered, the crowds were less on a Sunday and we loved it! As the sun went down in the backdrop, Dubrovnic's city walls and the old town looked immensely mesmerising! So much history, charm, beauty packed into one small city! With Dubrovnic, our coastal adventure came to an end and it was time for our longest drive from Dubrovnic to Otocac, back to the mountains of Croatia.

The Sun sets on the Adriatic...
I am drenched in the cool waters upon the pebbles
The orange glow behind this city fills my eyes with wonder
And my soul wonders as well
The history behind those walls...
The present beauty of this city...
The amazing waters of the Mediterranean 
And me...and this moment
I am full of melancholy of the dusk!  

We were worried for the long drive but as it turned out, we zoomed through the highway, covering 450 Km in around 4.5 hours including a great break at a midway where we had one of the best Roast chicken ever, and Aanya slept for more than half of the drive.

Although we see so many pictures of the places we are going to stay, but they never convey the true feeling, I had a gut feeling that Otocac would be a decent country side place, at least a nice 2 day green time before heading back, but it turned out that its one of the best country side stays we have ever had. We reached Porzor, the village near Otocac and were immediately taken in by the vibe and surroundings. Its a proper Croatian village near Otocac Town with lovely views of the mountains, vast green farm fields, a river running through, folks busy farming and living, cattle as always adding to the charm!

And the place of our stay, the Apartment, one of the best! Its a proper Summer Home where kids go and meet their grandparents and spend the summers. The owner of the place is a great guy, such a nice host, he immediately made us comfortable, showed us around his farms, plucked fresh fruits for Aanya and we all were in the Village Mode! Their Son and grandkids are here for Holidays and Aanya had a great time with them.

Now, the Life at such a Village. Its my fantasy, its something I see myself doing in my thoughts. Great house, farms, simple work, simple living, lovely family, close to nature...Who would not want all this? This Village is picture perfect! I guess better than all villages that I saw in Austria, Ireland and may be even Wales! Folks are great as well, we were like some rare species for them, who would have seen Indians before in this Village!!

Aanya saw all sorts of animals including long missing sheep, lots of them, cows, chickens, doggies, birdies, goats, milky white Swans...and Brown Bears! Yes, there is a lovely Beer shelter cum sanctuary run by volunteers in nearby forests here, we went their and saw some cute brown bears! Actually no words can describe how Quaint this village is! It will all sound repetitive, one has to be here to feel it, live it! Even the town of Otocac is such a nice small place full of life and great vibe!

Our Croatia trip is ending tomorrow and just last two days in Slovenia before heading back to chaos! Looking forward to Lubjlana now!

We reached Lubjlana and after a painful goodbye to our car, reached the apartment which was bang in city center, excellent place to stay when you have to roam around in the city. Talking about the city, Lubjlana surprised us, we didn't expect it to be this good. The vibe of the city was so adsorbing, the places around the river Lubjalinica are so inviting, full of local folks and tourists in merry mode! The bridges on the river, the boats floating lazily beneath them, sunshine, amazing walk ways....and the beautiful and mystical castle overlooking the town center makes a perfect European town. We loved the walks around, we walked a lot actually.

In addition to the town center the highlights for me were the The Tivoli park and atmosphere made by the thousands of University students. Aanya loved roaming around the park, seeing the ducks, and most importantly doing 'something' in the play area a lot :)

I will never forget spending 10 minutes inside the church near the park, while the priests were offering prayers in form of hymns, I could't understand a word, but the feeling, dedication filled up the beautiful church hall with magic that was so spellbinding.

We couldn't have asked for a better end to our trip. Lubjlana is one of the coziest European towns we have been to.

It was time to pack our bags, catch the train and then the flight, super long journey back to Bangalore. In the train Aanya was a little disturbed but we had a great time in Vienna, spending the evening around the train station. And the flights back were much more peaceful as the baby slept well, we could sleep, drink, watch movies.

A trip to remember, savour, most importantly the way Vas manages everything, plans everything, never fails to amaze me. Its because of her that I am able to explore the world, the wonders so well and now with Aanya added to the team, the adventure, the unknown element has made it even more fun to travel despite the added effort.

                                                                                                       ~Saurabh (10-Sep '16)